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曳撒是马面裙的最早起源吗？

2023年11月27日

近日，沪上阿姨与传统汉服品牌“汉尚华莲”联名，以马面裙为主题元素推出的新品。

11月17日，沪上阿姨官方微信公众号发布新品推文，在推文中介绍马面裙“最早出现在《明宫史》：‘曳撒，其制后襟不断，而两傍有摆，前襟两截，而下有马面褶，往两旁起。’” 将马面裙和曳撒定义为了同一件服饰。

但马面裙与曳撒并不是同一件服饰，无论是从使用功能、使用者性别、服饰结构来看，两者都不相同。

马面裙和曳撒的起源是完全不同的，马面裙最早起源于宋代的旋裙，经过宋元发展到了明代，成为了女性最流行的服饰。

马面演变图

而曳撒源于元代的质孙服，一色衣，是明代男性流行的便装，明中期后更多作为戎服。

在结构上，两者也不一样，马面裙是下裙两片共腰结构；而曳撒是上下一体的结构，交领右任，正面前襟是上下分裁在缝合的，腰部以下打马面褶，形似马面裙，背后是通裁的，没有任何打褶。

曳撒结构图

沪上阿姨将「马面」一词来源的历史记载，将之安放在了「马面裙」的具体形容上，混淆概念，造成误解。

以传统服饰为切入点进行联动，宣传思路是非常好的，但是科普知识还是要更严谨一些，多查阅一些相关资料，不要误导大众。

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8949785526587, 9016409620795, 9021164519739, 8906811605307,

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9663404015931, 9653778874683, 9633350091067, 9380369039675, 9309759013179, 9308581888315, 9026172191035,

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8473340051771, 8567921148219, 8438687564091, 9338412302651, 9450244702523, 9026172191035, 9663406276923, 9663405162811, 9409301709115, 9603691544891, 9380369039675, 9067150213435,